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Well, how there in the donkey

Well, how there in the donkey?

With the light hand of Vladimir Vysotsky, the name of the Norwegian capital is sometimes in conversation in conversation. In jest. But they live there seriously.

A huge square, I think – a meter two for two, a portrait of a volitional man with a harsh look, weathered in gray-black tones, stood on the side in our physical building, leaning toward the Swedish wall, that, as I understood a lot later, it was symbolic. Feeling that we, first-graders who came to the first in life of physical education lesson, clearly require an explanation, the teacher said: "This is a foreign traveler Nansen. Our school first wore his name. But does the Soviet school be called in honor of the bourgeois researcher? So now we will wear the name of the Soviet Academician of Zelinsky. This is an outstanding scientist, he invented gas mask". In the distance now, 1948 unfolded campaign "low-brand in front of all foreign".

Stern, as if the testing view of the overturned side of a person has repeatedly recalled during a trip to Norway, to the homeland of Fogrotof Nansen, where he is chosen as one of the most great citizens of this country. The monuments are installed in a variety of places, his name is areas and the streets, and at the foot of the famous springboard in Holleniclane we went to the cafe name Nansen. The exposition in the museum is talking about his expeditions, where the main space is occupied by the marine monster – the monstrous sizes of the vessel "Fram", on which he made his way to the North Pole. But in full the panorama of his life is presented in the Museum Complex on the BEG Peninsula.

Very much connected the Great Norwegian with Russia. After his ski transition through Greenland and many years of expedition towards the North Pole, the naturalist was elected by a foreign honorary member of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences. Magnificent Order of St. Stanislav of the first degree – tribute to Russia Nansen Researcher. Much later, already in the 20s, he was elected to the Moscow Council – for that huge help he, using his authority and the mandate of the League of Nations, had a starving Volga region. No one causing how many Volzhanas – thousands? tens of thousands? – Saved then life Furoof Nansen.

In memory of Nansen – "other than the USSR" His name was assigned to my school subsequently – despite the fact that the official propaganda did not forget to remind that he "Typical petty-bourgeois pacifist and philanthrop" (Devent Small Soviet Encyclopedia). Well, when it was time to strike out "Friends of the USSR" of different kind "Doubtful", If it was even a deputy of the Mossovet and the Nobel laureate, as Nansen, he was remembered that he was the High Commissioner of the League of Nations for Prisoners of war, he in the years after the First World War issued special documents for living abroad to those who lost their homeland – the so-called "Nansen passports". Among those who were received, those whom the revolutionary wave was shoved from Russia. So it turned out to be his portrait in our physical education room inverted. And he was symbolic leaning to the Swedish wall – the opponent of His homeland with Sweden, Nansen did a lot to terminate this very humiliating union and gained independence in 1905 in 1905. The first country recognizing the independence of the new state was Russia.

"I have one of them"

"Your room will be released at 12 o’clock, another half an hour for cleaning – so come on an hour later", – Smiling sunny, said the hotel at the hotel, when we arrived in Oslo.

Leaving things and capturing the city plan, we moved to his development. I did not have time to pass and half the apartment, they were strikingly worried: the deserted Sunday streets were broadcast very unexpected "Kalinka". Is this not the effect of solar overheating – here, as in other European countries, the end of summer was incredibly hot? Meanwhile, the filled voice was louder with familiar words. And so we joined the number not only by the listeners, but also the audience: dressed in purple sprouts, silk balls, soft black boots, in a famously fragmented cap with a rose carnation, a high singer, was actually talked, but the main thing is clearly not Voice of Street Halyshchik. Sounded "Katyusha". Wide range, softness, depth, overtones, not to mention the decibels – no, so random people do not sing.

So it turned out. Nikolai Gilev for three and a half years working at the Opera and Ballet Theater in Gothenburg, and at the weekend, together with his friend Ruslana Radchenko, who accompanies him on the guitar, comes here from the neighboring Sweden a little earn. Here it is possible to do at least on Karl-Yuhansgate, the main street Oslo (which ours were chosen), – unlike, say, Copenhagen, where Danish laws allow you to sing on the street only after four hours of the day. Break the tent on one of the islands in Oslo-fjord, the benefit of the local rules require only that the tent stood at no less than one hundred fifty meters from the nearest housing, there are no other prohibitions in this regard.

Although he grew up in the family, where they spoke in our, and in Latvian, although he studied at the Latvian Conservatory, and after and in Vilnius, find a job in his native Riga, a man with our surname, it turned out difficult. After the series of listening, he concluded a contract with the opera house in Germany, where he worked for several years a soloist. Having learned that a new theater is being created in Gothenburg, offered its services. I decided not to tempt fate: although there were solo performances that received a good press, I entered the choir – the Horist’s contract, unlike the soloist, is not limited to time. God did not hurt Nicholas and linguistic abilities. To the our and two Baltic languages, he added German, and then the Swedish and Norwegian.

It was pushed in the Latvian Embassy – like, they say about Latvia’s citizenship? Before you could not succeed, maybe now it will be possible. No, and now the same thing is true, the argument is new – "You lost contact with the republic". It remains to wait for a residence permit in Sweden. Good wife arrived, now together try to organize a daughter’s arrival.

Time flies quickly – a lot of work. The opera is preparing for the fairy tales of Hoffman. That’s even a beard ordered to swing, one espanyolka remained. And for sale: "And you will be in Gothenburg, come to me in the opera house. Everyone knows me there, I have one of them".

We go further on Karl-Yuhansgate, and after the crossbrucks the strings rushes heartfelt: "Maple You are my fallen, Klena Zaled. "

From Russia – for a smile

"Yes, where are you going? This is your Oslo – Big Village. What is there to see?" This had to hear when he talked about the plans of the trip to Norway. But I have long noticed: one will go to Paris and then says: "Weather Parsive was, prices – do not approach. ", And the other will get to Tsarevokokshaisk – the stories for three in the evening will bring. The problem is alone – did you prepare for a meeting with the new one, is it open to perception of impressions. And you will configure this wave – you will unwittingly compare with the usual, compare with your native reality.

Norway – the country by European standards is large, over the area more UK or Italy. And very small – in the population, people, as in St. Petersburg. But it still does not say anything.

But another: Norway, for example, a country of the most expensive. High prices, high taxes. Consumer cleanliness on the streets, sidewalks are rigid brushes and wash out thin hoses with wild water pressure. Fountains, which here is a unthinkable set, regularly fill with the detergent powder, why they turn into a time in the likeness of a snowy snowdrift. And such quantity, sorry, sorts, sparkling purity and fragrant soap, even outside the city, in the forest lake, probably did not meet in any country. On the doors, from the inside, they usually hang up the drawn business paper: who at what time it brought in order a common place in order, and as signed, and please inform about complaints, they will arise. Free toilets. But the content of them in the stage of unbearable brilliance, the supply of toilet paper, soap and shampoo, fresh towels – it is expensive. Equally, as a constant supraitation of bridge and sidewalks, the seizure of black plastic bags from the urns and the investment of fresh in them, with the aim of imparting the urns of the hygienic and tidy species; The idea that this object can be turned into a mountain of garbage, for the Norwegians of the monstrous. So, and this is part of the funds introduced by ordinary citizens as taxes.

And, of course, public transport. It produces a strong impression. At each stop of the tram and the bus hanging the schedule, observed strictly. The same can be said about the subway (yes, only in a half-million city there is a subway with more than hundreds of stations). Ticket for any urban transport type, including boat, worth 18 Norwegian crowns (approximately 14 rubles). True, you make the opportunity to participate in a crush (this concept is unknown here) and are forced to strangle the path on a soft sofa (there is always free space). Boring. By the way, if you regularly travel by public transport, you can buy a ticket for a week, it will cost cheaper – in terms of approximately one hundred rubles. Even greater savings gives a travel month.

And here the question arises here. What means "expensive"? After all, along with the ticket, you acquire the right to comfort, clean in the cabin, air conditioning, right to know exactly when you find yourself in the place where you go. Isn’t it worth paying for it?

By the way, the Norwegians have found a way to reduce the cost of maintaining the metro. At stations – a minimum of turnstiles, between which free passages. In a glass cabin can be sitting ticket and something to knit, not paying attention to that a passenger ticket in the composter or not. If so passed – it means he has a pass. No controllers who need to pay salary. People are law-abrasion. In addition, they know that their law is beneficial to society and therefore, they themselves. What to keep the army of controllers and perspective of turnstiles when you can simply buy a ticket?

And what the funds are not regretted here (by the way, very minor), it is to eradicate the very concept "queue". With all its charms – Swami, the desire to squeeze forward, repulsion the elbows and simply conversion. However, they had long forgotten about it, if they knew once. The question is translated into a purely technical sphere. Where the queue arises, for example, in the mail that serves as a bank, hangs a modest automatic machine. By clicking the button, you get a ticket with a sequence number. You can sit on a sofa or in a chair, deepen in viewing the magazine or reading newspaper and watch from time to time, whether your room has caught up one of the dozen working winds. And in each window you can get the most diverse range of services – from sending correspondence and receiving payment on accounts before currency exchange and purchase a phone card. Remember our "Sberbank": to the window "Payment of utility services" solid queue, and in the other five employees wean from idleness.

And as often, we note that something transferred to the native soil, with external similarity differs from "Original". The system of smiles and full attention to the client, natural in the same Norway (although any other Western country can also be called), alien for our harsh fighters of the service front, even if it is some elegant representation of Swiss watch companies on Tverskaya-Yamsk. It is difficult to wait for a smile from our flight attendants – and how to smile when the mouth is busy work on the chewing. (Really, Vladimir Semenovich dreamestly sang such a lady: "Today here, and tomorrow will be in the donkey. "?)

In Oslo, we were given in the development and printing of Kodakovsky films. Ready in an hour with a free smile, thanks when surrendering and receiving an order and invitation to come. In Moscow in the same "Kodak" Only part of the frames were imprinted, the rest of the masters seemed like little interesting. It turned out that if you have a desire to get all the prints, you must specify it in the order, writing very dangerous words "Unpretentious". Well, if the manifests and print masters want to save a little on the developers, oversputing (no, no, it is certainly impossible!) Chemicals are over? Or simply something will distract the maestro during the processing of your masterpieces? Sorry, no complaints of you. And no smiles – on the other.

Fifty Museums B "Big village"

Apart from countless small art gallery and art salons in "Big village" More than fifty museums. Some are known far beyond the country.

Two million people arrive annually from all over the world to come to Vigendand Park. This is the world’s largest collection of sculptures created by one master. The fact that the sculptor Gustav Vigenda was obsessed with the idea to embody in the stone and bronze all the peripetics and nuances of human being – this is clear. Another mystery – as this person managed to convince all sorts of authorities to assist him in the implementation of this idea, to take off the largest park in the city. Until his death during World War II, Vigeland worked fanatically in the workshop, very rarely leaving her walls. Few knew him in the face. Now he can see him – at the entrance to the park there is a monument to the devotee. As a result, 192 compositions consisting of 650 figures were created. And although he worked in the genre of realism, close to naturalism, collected together these compositions of many make it leisurely to wander through the Alleams of the Park – Museum, to stop near some of them in thought. Here is a love date. argument.. . Happy family with many children. lonely mother on which children go like a horse. quite an elderly couple, summarizing the results of the lived.

Pride of Norwegians – one of the founders of expressionism Artist Edward Munch. His picture "Creek" – The woman covered by horror runs through the bridge – is often used as an illustration in books, textbooks, brochures, designed to symbolize something nightmarish. All his work is imbued with drama, a supervision, tragedy. He himself admitted it without sadness: "Disease, madness and death were my black angels, who appeared above my cradle and relentlessly following my life for me". At the age of five, he lost his mother who deceased from tuberculosis, soon the same disease took his older sister. In many of his canvases there is this tragic topic. Norwegians not only built a huge building for his personal museum, but also took several halls in it for bibliographic materials, scrupulously assembled and carefully stored.

Several most significant work mugs are available in the National Gallery. This is a solid meeting. In addition to the works of Norwegian painters and graphs, the gallery has a good collection of impressionists and postmingly. There is a brand, Van Gogh, Modigliani. Renoir is represented not only by the canvas, but also sculptures.

In addition to Nansen, two more Norwegians are among the most famous travelers. This is the ruled Amundsen, the open-retarder of the Southern Pole, which made a lot of bold expeditions and to the districts of northern polar ice. And Tour Heyerdal, with the name of which arises unambiguous associations: "Kon-Tika", "R", "Tigris". On the raft, papyrus and cane boats, he together with other researchers crossed the oceans in confirmation of the theory of the possibility of ancient to perform so long-range travel. These, with the permission to say, courts are exhibited today at a special museum. After inspection of the flesh "Kon-Tika" You can go down the floor below and to be among the sharks and other unbelievable livelihood floating under the ramp: Exposure organizers for the worst clarity recreated and underwater world. In the halls of the museum, wooden African cult figures and huge stone idols brought by travelers are exhibited. And the exposition of the museum narrates on the exposition of the museum in all details "Fram" – The vessel on which Amundsen, having changed Nansen, went to the conquest of the southern pole and then returned to Norway with Triumph. On some few days, the price of unthinkable deprivation and efforts, he was ahead of another courageous researcher, also rushing through the torus to the cherished goal – the Englishman Robert Scott, apparently, who did not suffer and the dead on the way back.

When I presented a press card in this museum in this museum, giving the right to a free entrance, I unexpectedly heard in English: "Are you really going to write about us?" My solid certification did not fully satisfy the ticket: "You are from Russia, so you should know members of the club "Adventure". It became interesting. "Yes, I know Dmitry Shparo. We met with him not only in Moscow, but also in the North Pole, – here the eyes of my strict examiner brightened. – Oh, of course, he was skiing from Russia to Canada, and I flew there only for a day". – "And Shumilova you know?" – Did no interlocutor. I did not know this person, but did not disappoint him, confidently suggests that we probably met on ice expanses.

And nearby we were waiting for the Museum of Vikings, who were called Varyagami in Russia, treated with respect, which, as you know, led to an invitation "Volodya Nama", Addressed in 862 years Varyago – Viking Rurik. You look at the ancient twisted diet from the time of the court – on them, the long-haul ribbons in high latitudes are still half an hour before Columbus made his way to the shores of the continent, which will not soon be called America. Further pages of the history of great navigators – Norwegians are presented in the Marine Museum. His high brick walls from the inside are covered with wooden figures, decorated the nose of ships. You have the opportunity to feel the life of sailors of different times – even pretty modern pastries are presented in the exposition with all signs of habitat, right up to a joking poster on the wall with words "I’m not going to listen to the history of your life".

Motherland skis and skates

You do not know a single word in Norwegian? This is not true. After all, the word "slalom" You know? Well, and you underestimated yourself. By the way, it means "ice descent". Humanity must be grateful to the Norwegians for one thing that they invented skates and skis.

In ancient times, skiing was difficult to call "pair". Left, up to three meters long, was smooth and intended for slipping. Right, about meter in short, – to repulsion, for this below it was truncated with a reindeer fur. Starting from 1600, these skis pounds the army. In some parts of the country they were in the course of the 30s of our century.

Until the end of the last century, people used only one ski stick. Heavy stick was multipurpose. With its help, the skier supported the balance, especially when descent. A sharp metal pin made it an effective weapon for hunting and protection against – bears. Sometimes the top of the stick turned into a spoonful of impressive sizes, which indicates an excellent appetite of hunters.

The whole story of this oldest vehicle movement in the snow is visually represented in the ski museum at the foot of the famous springboard in Hollencollane in Oslo suburb. Built in 1892, springboard more than a dozen times reconstructed. Now this is a complex 60-meter construction, and the Olympic and Games, and the Championships of any rank. Every winter snow slopes around coloring Participants of the ski festival, hollencollensky relay, lovers ride along the tracks laid here. Guests have a good choice: only in the area of ​​the capital two thousand kilometers equipped and lighted in the evenings of the tracks, including for skiing. You can ride on a dog harness, and in a parkon crew.

Well, how there in the donkey

In the summer, a steep slope of the springboard overgrown with a thick grass, and the landing place turns into a pond with ducks. Although at the wrong time you can fully experience the whole range of jumper sensations, carrying over the overclocking world at a speed of 130 kilometers per hour. To do this, it is enough to climb into the cockpit – a simulator resembling a van without windows. But it is for lovers of very sharp feelings.

And how not to climb the top of the springboard, especially since the rise in the elevator is promised? True, it is necessary to go to the elevator several flights of stairs. The elevator is browsed, it seems only to the middle of the structure. Further – the mercy we ask for steep iron stairs. A cargo American is imploringly looking at her husband, but he is full of harsh determination to do the way to the end. And the rise is worth. From the observation deck there is a luxurious view of the fjord, fields and forests, visible and donkey as if from a bird’s flight. You see what you need to go back to the city – there is still a lot of interesting things. "What do they have a button to press?" – Borming, entering the elevator. And I hear in our: "The second bottom". This is one of two sports likes of the guys who entered the elevator after us. Lithuanians, now going to come here in winter.

From any bird’s flight one capital building will always be visible. The dark burgundy colors of the bulk, as if consisting of several cubic shape of buildings connected by transitions, is picturesquely located on the shore of the fjord. Construction, lasts of two decades, ended in 1950.

From here, once a year, all major television companies lead the transfer. Here, here on this podium, next to the copper bell, there is a ceremony of awarding the Nobel Prize of the World, awarded by the decision of the Storting – the Norwegian Parliament. In the mid-70s, she was awarded to Academician Sakharov, much later – a man who rescued him from the link, and then tried to deprive him of his words at the congress – Mikhail Sergeevich. You can come to the bell, touch it with your hand. Once again think about the transactions of modern history and history in general. And then rise to the second floor, go through the spacious chairs, the walls of which are decorated with front portraits and tapestries, and windows open a beautiful view of the harbor, militant sails. Curious to get acquainted with the presents of official guests. Here is a familiar Phakhskaya box, bronze copy of the monument in Volgograd, here is a vase – a gift of Khrushchev. On a vase Date – 1964. Whether he thought that later, a few months later would forever lose the opportunity to act as high – and generally official -?

Nearby is less impressive, but the building is more important for the life – Storting. A group of 30 people lead a guide, telling about the history of the country and the functioning of the parliamentary system. So that no one accidentally be behind, the group is closed by a security guard. You can sit in the hall, where 165 deputies are sitting. And at the same time hear how in 1940 the Norwegian king replied decisive "No!" Emissarians of fascist Germany, who offered him to cooperate with the invaders. The monarch hardness gave impetus to the resistance movement. In the final liberation of Norway, the units of the Red Army took part. One of the halls is assigned to the library. This comes all the most important world periodicals. Get three of our publications – "our newspaper", "News", "Independent newspaper".

There are two more museums who will tell a lot about the culture and life of people, the history of the country. One of them is the oldest open-air museum in the world, the Norwegian Museum of People’s Day. From all over the country, the surviving old buildings were developed here – residential buildings, churches, agricultural buildings, pottery workshops, mills, barns, bakeries. This is a whole city (or this time still a big village?), with streets and alleys, for which you can not only walk on foot, but also ride on a bricke. All this is supported in working condition. On the old pottery circle, you will make a cup or a vase, you can also purchase the same here. The baked appetizing appetizing and really delicious wheat pellets, they are sold in the old Harchevna ladies in "Bunade", Traditional national clothes – a snow-white blouse, embroidered with bright colors of a long black skirt and a short vest.

Another museum – historical. Here are the most ancient patterns of material culture. Stones with runic letters, carved wooden crosses, weapons, tools, mannequins of people in the process of work. Exposition is huge. But a person from Russia makes thinking the following.

Entrance to the historical, as well as in ethnographic, natural history, architectural, military historical, zoological, paleontological, numismatic, and a number of other museums, national and several small-scale art galleries, in the Park of Wigeland sculptures, as well as hourly tours of the Storting, – Free. Meanwhile, considerable costs are required for their content and protection. But, apparently, to acquaint people, and first of all the young Norwegians, with various aspects of national history and culture – more important priority, rather than income from entrance tickets.

And further. In historical and other museums in front of the easiest there is a special children’s room. Table, Chairs, Sheets of Paper, Pencils, Colored Chalk. If desired, kids can express their impressions from what it sees – while it is fresh – on paper. Can write a few words, put your name under the drawing. And right there, without any jury to present our work "to the exhibition" – Attach with buttons to a special stand. What better brings up in young souls interest in the history of the native country, patriotism is essentially a matter – such an approach or policy makers to love their homeland despite the fact that more than a decade of the doors of the Moscow Historical Museum were closed? "No money"? How, there is no? Or it is not for it? Question of priorities, as in Norway.

Ivan from the shores of Fjord

"During one of its numbers, my friend George Maryanovich – Remember how many people once gathered at his concerts in the Soviet Union? – dancing, usually fell on the floor. And before the concert in Kyiv, I warned the doctors on duty on the scenes that the singer had a bad heart with a heart, no matter how, they say, what did not happen during the performance. I do not forget the expressions of the face Maryanovich, when a team of doctors flew to the scene in the most responsible moment on the stage with a red cross and tried to immerse George on stretcher. " – Ivan rolled in laughter and rubs the sweat from his forehead.

In those distant 50s and 60s Ivan Knejevich was a musician, played a saxophone and piano, several times was in the Union together with the popular Yugoslav singer Maryanovich. Thirty years ago, one friend asked him to replace him in the orchestra, leaving in Oslo. Got acquainted with the local girl, since then they are together. Adult son and daughter. Sandra’s granddaughter recently appeared, Knejevich is going to carry her to her homeland, Serbia.

. When we first looked at "Donau" ("Danube"), one of the one and a half dozen ships standing in the embankment and turned into restaurants-"floats", I did not expect that we were awarded such an acquaintance. We came there every day attracted by very tasty and not too expensive dishes from the prawn popular here. Because of the table on the upper deck, a beautiful view of Akhershus fortress was opened, and for the entire harbor, which during the weekend turned into a place of total fiesta – passed noisy, cheerful and very tasty "Festival of Seafood". Well been visible and standing in principle elegant sailboat "Nangyala" from light brown wood. Special sign read that he was built by the famous ship by Colin Archer, the creator of the legendary "Fram", commissioned by the our king in 1902. And now it can be rented "For groups from 1 to 25 people". On the deck – unscreased wooden tables, comfortable chairs – all for a pleasant sea walk. And really, in other days "Nangyala" absent in his habitual place.

We were already familiar with the waitress "Donau" Marit, not very young, but rapid in movements, sociable and cheerful brunette in unchanged leather shorts. The first surprise for us was to know that Marit is a professor of history and economy, and on vacation it just worries. And it did not affect her that shift lasted from noon until midnight.

Somehow, descending down to wash your hands, I noticed that on the iron door, native words are viewed through white oil paint: "No entrance for unauthorized people. Motor compartment", On another door – "Toilet". Talking Marit said that the ship is really made in the USSR, was bought in Estonia. "Everything is good here, but only the ghost does not give rest, – she continued. – Yes, imagine a real ghost, "she repeated with conviction, apparently, feeling distrust. – Something knocks out or sunburst behind the closed door. You go – no one. And it happens often. What is it, how not to ghost?" Surely still wanders the ghost to know what?

Another surprise was waiting for us when a week came up to our table, a cook with a very kind past face, thanked for the fact that we chose this "float". We asked him to sit down. Thanked for branded shrimp. It turned out that the cook is called Ivan, that he is Serb, and we moved to our. Soon it was found that the cook – at the same time the owner "Danube" ("The ship bought one Norrow, and then I sold"). That he has another restaurant in Oslo, Gypsy. And then there have been talk about his life, family.

He was born in Yugoslavia in April 1941. "Two days after my birth, Germans came to our village, "Ivan told. – Mother, still weak after childbirth, carried me fifteen kilometers along mine fields, and in me there were six kilograms, heavy born. Saved me and I always remember it. Now I am pleased with her lug. "

"You know, he suddenly switches, – who sat recently won behind the table? Your Deputy Prime Minister with his lady. And the food remained satisfied". Without guards were? "Without guard", – confirms the interlocutor. However, I also know that Anatoly Chubais in Denmark and Norway traveled on vacation together with his wife, without guard, but it was curious.

Well, as in general, it lives in Norway to a person named Ivan? "You will live well if you work much. And the Norwegians – the people are pretty. If you are kindly good to them, so you will love you".

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