Path in Damascus
On authoritative opinion generrous, a our person is very difficult to imagine that somewhere and he can be a foreigner. Judging by this sign, I am our. I have passed the countries to the countries, walking with the crash in my hand and overwhelmed by Baul over my shoulders, but never got rid of the vague sensation that foreigners are, and not me.
Or worse – no one is foreigners: neither they nor i – all people like people, let and with the mustache – that we, in Sukhumi did not see this? And at home as at home, and the earth as the earth would write on it, or what on the geographical map: Turkey, Italy, Syria – especially Syria, the most fabulous of all. "Your spouse sirian?" — Resteractingly asked by Vlas Doroshevich, an innocent landing for a decadene’s spouse. "Say that sirian". — "Hive enthusiasm must be delivered. "
The path to Damascus, on which the Olemp, the naked spirit, the Apostle Paul, begins in Sheremetyev. Gm. Something not those associations climb: Mopassanov’s newlyweds called the way in Damascus a certain hidden hindrance – these French will all beghed, they and for Damascus clins, you look, will find a Freudian equivalent.
Each of us is lucky of Russia with them – in the form of its shopping group of shuttles and especially shuttle rooms: the ratio, as always, somewhere alone to three – one to five. This time it seems, this time, portable Russia is quite decent: just one drunken man with the external data of Leno Golubkova and in his own sliding pants semed circles, like an excited five-year-old Patzanenok. Behind him the disapproval view from under the rods watched the stone woman in the elastic pants of the leopard colors. The respectable lady in bodies was alienated – it seems that it is so called — "Leggins". She is trying in vain to look into the eyes of an incentive lady – a doctor by education. Highly focused on a beautiful scarlet with a granted blond beard. In the world he is a specialist in setting up computers. More – a guy as a guy with colorless mustache. Ruddy drunken ten-year-old boy of six feet of growth in open-open Dublin bass assures that Zhirinovsky will lead order. And otherwise it turns out – you want to take a preferential loan for the construction of the house, and you require a certificate of income, – it turns out, pay taxes. Yeltsin has all the advisers of the Jews! In Arabic Syria, these glances can find support.
The rest – well, imagine a lunch break somewhere in a cane or hairdresser. Dressed by communice – who is based on the Moscow March, who is to Syrian.
Alas – with so many magic names winds of restructuring blurred romantic haze: now even I know that "Boeing" — Airplane as a plane. When our shot down South Korean "Boeing", In the newspapers there were tiny notes: there at some "Boeing" When landing fell off the wheel, Syam during the takelet collapsed wing – they gave it to understand that Korean "Boeing" So it was doomed. But – Praise Allah! — Flowers.
Syrian Early March looks like our tender May – Sunny, but not bake, degrees under twenty. The glass wall has a pioneered palm tree, sked by pineapple. Used border guards, customs officers – I am not an anthropologist, I could well seem that I am in a gold triangle Baku – Tbilisi – Yerevan. The airport is ordinary, modern, only the core – marbles, columns, ornaments – responds to some echoing Alhambra. But – I warn you in advance – in the palaces of Sheikhs or colonial governors, the Eastern luxury is quite relative: invented by the eastern architecture, decorative elements were repeated so many times and with such a magnificity were repeated in European eclectics, which is the experienced visitor of St. Petersburg Palaces of the second half of their last century "Moorish living rooms" may seem much dazzling.
In general, the prevailing color of Damascus is a color of concrete; Prevailing forms – forms of unassicular utilization: it is necessary to do (to save), and not admire. Heavy Mauritanian arches are noticeable only on relatively frontal streets. Ho Palms – Palms Do not take away. The mosques – in the mass of it, too, pretty uncomplicable, minarets, as the fire calans, who have retired from the growth of the city, are lost among major buildings – but there are almost almost in every quarter, they are always praying in them. It can be seen that these are essentials. And luxury, I repeat, a little – Istanbul in his provinces to her, it can be seen, not very sought.
Square is all up to one about five to ten corners, and all different, get lost – sprinkle: We are unwittingly thought the quarters of rectangular. Haming helps to focus what the streets smoothly rise to the mountain, and the last cubes of houses (concrete, concrete, concrete) were published seem to be a SIZY to the turtle back, dyed by the windows, as if a break, lured by coast swabs.
In the local curved alleys, you can loop for a very long time – and everything is in the mountain, and sometimes as the stairs – to finally get to the desert slope and start looking for the road down. Famous oriental dirt is no more than in Moscow. Syrians fold garbage in plastic bags: I saw the village from which the black clouds of packaging bags rolled along the semi-desert, like a spiny camel. There are few women’s streets, but in the center they are more often dressed in European, and here, among concrete walls, you will suddenly wear out on the black figure without a face – and the moment it seems that she goes to you back.
As in the Caucasus, you feel some tensions: Allah knows how they belong to those who drank giauras, and you are still with dollars in your pocket, and with other people’s. But there was no shadow of the incident. Even in the trading clever, continuously facing and clinging to the carts, bales, they are very excited, but never faded. Malice never seen. But I saw men kissing at a meeting, and young guys go, holding hands. In the streets where the machines do not dispense, somehow they wonder to determine without a nourish one who should reversely repeat all street knees to the nearest fork – meters in two hundred. Once on a taxi I was half a kilometer for fifteen minutes.
Our hotel was easy to find out on an advertising poster of some neurosurgeon. Hotel near the hotel is the only monument – a man with a torch in pose "Worker and collective farmers", Stylistics of district center. He has also seen a monument to President Assad – either not too skillful, but without a flattery: the leader is extremely sutul, with too large, rendered far ahead. Paper portraits and portraits of Assad everywhere – on the windshields, in the shops, in workshops, in the eaters – very kind, like all dictators. True, in those days, Damascus was even more oblain – from the cloth to the photocopy leaflets – portraits of his son, recently crashed by car: Caucasian type handsome man, paratrooper, took prizes on racing. HE in presidency happiness.
Looking from the outside – in the country and peacefully, and satisfying (immediately remember the noble tourists of Bernard Shaw with Romen Rollan in Soviet Russia). For a decent TV in a decent issue, some kind of prayers are prayers in fezda, for laughing seeds for each other. Omar, who who who who drove us on the business circles of Damascus, responds to the Supreme Sovereign with annoyance: "A, tired. " About the dictators in real ferocious so do not say.
If you do not poke your nose in the outback, go in parallel Sea – you will see the blooming south to the very Aleppo (halaba). In Aleppo, a powerful antique citadel on a mountain, gloomy dish, a magnificent mosque, the same concrete buildings, the same birdhouses and corridors, shops, crowded goods, workshops, where hammers are continuously knocking, drive cars, wovers, sprinkle welding. And you yourself no longer know, you read it or invented, as in our memory in this very Aleppo fundamentalists, six hundred of supporters of the government party cut out one day, and the government, in turn, threw a tanks to the city, interrupting thousands of twenty thousand. Life tightens the scars to complete indistinguishability.
With a well-maintained highway, it is necessary to go deep into the depth, and a blank semi-desert begins very quickly – only occasionally shepherd with a wrapped head ruled by a sheep flock. Tens of kilometers along the ghostly lunar mountains, while suddenly the hard palm coat will not be embroidered – the oasis of Palmyra. The remains of magnificent colonnade – the ancient Syrian capital flourished under the weakening power of Rome. But the legendary Queen Zinovia achieved full sovereignty, and Rome responded to the constitutional order in response.
In a word, in the country silence. Hu, a pair of car guns will look into the bus, so our respectable lady will immediately stink: "Oh you, my shit, let me kiss you!" Omar translates, the warrior is smiling: I can not, Ramadan, – and go further. Many of our compatriots in a foreign land flowing. Ruddy Falcon Zhirinovsky is checked into the Pestry Cape with a Black Ring on the Head (Circling Nickname Arafat) and offers passersby putting girls. Those are afraid of the inconspicuous price, but it consults: Soon, they say, brought cheap. Elementary shopping ours own quite many. The our-Syrian business helped a very circumstance that a lot of Syrians in the years of Brotherhood was learned in Russia and gratitude to marriage here.
Falcon acquired and hookah. It is always ready to file in a restaurant, laying a tobacco ball on the coal, providing a plastic mouthpiece in a sealed cellophane sachet. Man with a tube, not to mention the cigarette, never achieve such significance. Has Sokol, who made a throw on the south, chasing waiters and spreads us on some professor Klimov that the story makes psychomets, like Magomet.
But the script is emphasized correctly. Million times convinced: there are no circumstances forgoing man to be Ham. One is proud that it does not cause people a chagrin, the other – what causes. Without any benefit – well, what is the benefit of a stone dress to put a leopard leg across the passage: "Smear!". So before the friendliness of the Syrian traders, we are our special way, if I will be credible, it is not very soon: it is extremely difficult to pretend if you are drunk from the desire to make a man.
Terrible Arab terrorists do not see anywhere. Only in the fermented earlier, the root of a distant explosion (Gundy and long radio in "Alla, Bisimilla. " no longer notice). It turns out that this gun salutes the sunrise, after which it is impossible, nor drink, nor. kiss. And observe. Owar, the guy is quite, it seems, civilized, before the evening shot refused to swallow the pill from headaches. But you feel some envy, when in the evening there are all the shops, offices and workshops and on the street, to prepare for the trapes: such a tasty seems to be a kind of dumplings, floating in something like cottage cheese with milk.
And coffee in Damascus smells a cardamon – separately it seems to be not drinking at all. But it is reroyed to such a black that it is almost impossible without a cardamon. True, with Cardamon, too, but tribute to exotic – another thing is. And now the memory of it.
Want to tell about everything right away – and comes. I will try separately. So – the city. Concrete buildings – almost scenery: pass for them – and we will find it in countless corridors, corridors, floors and stupids "Thousand and one night" — No matter, Muslim quarter or Christian (Falcon could not believe that "Chocks" Christianity came almost one thousand years earlier than to him). You can get out from there only by chance. Even on the Sun is difficult to navigate: the balconies are almost closed above the head, more precisely, erkers, if it is an elegant word allowed in clay wavy rods, constituting the lower part of this facility. Forests in Syria Nehuto, transverse beans everywhere liquid and winding beams: Even in luxurious mosques, where the soul rushes, on the high painted ceilings, also see the rows of the same waves.
On the central streets, continuously and desperately signal (nostalgia for the disappeared ishachyam screams?), crawling the flock of machines – brands of so diverse and ancient, that it is already reminded by a car museum. Between the machines – precisely how through the flock – pedestrians are made away without any rules. There is no swag.
There is in the city and an impressive fortress over the river, dirty completely like somewhere in Kustana – Il, tires, banks. But, entering the fortress, get into endless trading rows. Caps of an indoor bazaar flow into shopping streets, where, in a Soviet view, an incredible abundance is reigned: gold, gold, gold, gold – fabrics, bathrobes, carpets, skirts, piquant lingerie: women, repeat, almost not even visible in advertising (only small pictures somewhere in the premises – exclusively with European models) – but openwork "Combitresa" (Combidress?), that is, some swimsuits, fastening between legs, boil with multicolored foam waves. And panties – I did not see anything shamelessly: on threads, with colored feathers in the most interesting place and even with the New Year’s light bulbs – signal lights so as not to miss in the dark? Work both on batteries, and from the network, only all contacts need to be carried out in rubber gloves and other insulators.
The hotel’s lobby is constantly grazing in anticipation of our brother a few Vergiliev, ready to spend in some fabulously cheap workshops and shops, "but I called here avoid: their intermediary percentage contributes to you. It is difficult to refuse it: Syrian politeness resembles our gloominess, so all the time you want to cheer them up: nothing, brother, do not stew! Sad cargo man turns out "State doctor": He graduated from the Kharkiv Medin Institute for the execution account, and therefore it was obliged to work for fifteen years for sixty dollars a month, not having private practice. His wife, a combat shill, organizes our shop tours, and he is with her systeritis. Hive enthusiasm must be delivered.
More about the elevated. Has was overlooked to the cave monastery of Malyuly ***, where in someone ascended on the mountain gambling of the basement a hundred years stopped by some saint. Entering the Tamnory Church with a Anti-Tank Head on Makovka, – In order for the cross and from the sky to see the Cross, – Vityaz in the leopard skull of Istivovo and widespread. Carefully examined the local miracle – a marble spot, resembling a female silhouette, she preserves that he saw the portrait of the Virgin in every detail in every detail. Heads and fatalness – also the result of simpleness?
What is the end of the journey. The receiving company helps to pack the baggage in cardboard boxes – how virtuoso can work with scotch! And how they do not mind spending this wonderful Arabic lick on the record of our miserable kilograms!
Hon is not an old regime when the Communists did not let drunk on the plane – in "Boeing" Literally smoke rocker – each other can be barely seen in the SIZY MGL. Some combat detachments of our unshaven red-eyed colleagues, squeezing on the knees of disheveled combat girlfriends, as if pirates, are placed by bottles, diverged into the passage to grab the breasts or debug a chchelet, – the stewardles are afraid and enjoy. HE Believe the campaigns slander — "Boeing" Surprisingly stable system!
Part of the luggage We ship by car: We will already carry bags in Luzhniks for two weeks, and it will go and ride through the deserts and mountain abyss, and the most amazing – will come. Surprise This time will be different: when receiving an air baggage, we read in the papers, which should pay it to some unfamiliar, but solid amount. Fucking race before traveling a travel agency, Lynch’s attempt, – how flawlessly adjacent scrapper, as a crushing stone woman! And where the respectableness of the respectable lady was released? At the expense of the company, donate in Damascus, and Falcon Zhirinovsky, in paroxysm rage mastered Arabic, it acts that these lime numbers, for some internal calculations with "Aeroflot" — Do not pay.