Expensive our lake
The life of Geneva and nearby towns is spinning around Lake Lehman, better known as Geneva. All celebrities rested here – from classics of literature to the classics of communism.
I love Switzerland I am a strange love. Moreover, the feeling is rich, multi-layered, not easy, which is in full growth to test us, people intelligent. Of course, it has passed a number of stages in its development. Here is the first and most simple. Nowhere does not have such peace like there! Thieves, smooth, including the Lake Geneva, smooth, as if imperceptible climate, widespread vegetation, as if punish innocuous antiques with old women around: such a feeling that you are already there, and your earth’s life has been successful, passed the exams and received: Uh-uh: Good distribution. It seems to be rejected – but all this is somewhat tired by the monotony and, must admit, boring: but what valuable experience! What a subtle experience from this rehearsal of the last trip! And what happiness from the fact that you have a choice, you can return to the earth’s life – the thing that we have a cortic, unpredictable, uncomfortable, but there is a real one, if you don’t smear, then we find a lot in it: this is bright The perverted joyful sense of return to Russia is for him we can, Switzerland and love?
One eccentric I was seriously trying to assure that the capital of Switzerland – a certain modest town of Bern. It is absolutely impossible! I do not believe. Where is Bernu before, for example, Geneva? When you walk along it, accompanied by a local resident of the Italian Zhanna – there is an intermenimal, not in Geneva, whether he fell in love with a fluent Lenin, this word? – I want the hair to tear away from the annoyance that in life we did not come together.
– The population of Geneva – 176 thousand people, – explains Zhanna. – The city stands on Lake Lehman (it is sometimes mistakenly called Geneva), which is surrounded by Switzerland and France. Climate soft. The leaves on chestnuts this year appeared literally on February 22 (record – January 3), which means the beginning of spring: one thing here is bad: a lot of cars. In the canton at 400 thousand inhabitants – 200 thousand cars, – Zhanna silent.
How hurts it to hear! Oh, if there are extra 10 million people from Moscow and there are two hundred people left! And so that around, a 10-minute drive from the Moscow Ring Road, was Belle France! And instead of the Khimki reservoir, there was an erroneous Geneva Lake! And the climate was soft, gentle, gullible: Well, perhaps I demand a lot?
If not, I would still like to have the same modest tiny trail from the revolution and red terror in the history of Moscow, which remained in Geneva: this is a guillotine in a small museum, the so-called Maison Tavel. In 1798, Geneva joined the French Republic and became the capital of Lehman Department. And the revolutionary legality required that in each department there was its own state guillotine. Here is one such here and brought in 1799-m. And decided to experience it. We would immediately have someone sentenced to "tower" and swallowed on the fell. And there – no! Instead of a bourgeois in this guillotine wooden, almost the summer point inserted the ram – and the elegant oblique blade was punished with a stupid ram.
Here, actually, and the whole revolution! Where did people have so many brains, so much wisdom in those times, when in Russia, only Pushkin was born? Although we and now, after the 200-year anniversary, Alex Sergeich, millions of obsessed, ready to run with guns and tear off each other’s heads – instead of peacefully walking along the lake cleaning bracket, watching the snowy French Alps in close Dali: Next to you on the embankment Germans walk in shorts, furious English cars dangle on rollers, well, about the Japanese a word, they are found everywhere – like cockroaches. Stepodewo wishes of Arab oil workers in black headscarves and with greedy curiosity carefully peppering in them rapidly aging Azerbaijanis, who are still unable to abandon the Soviet habits for European clothing. But the pier on the waterfront, right in front of the hotel "Bo Rivan", Little Heat Waters – in similar riding Crimean holidaymakers.
The ticket is purchased at the box office, which is incomplete from pine boards in the style of the our country Saraychik, for nothing that the center of Geneva is just Ancroyable! Whether it is from savings, or in pursuit of ecology?
– Bateau, Bateau! – Cheerfully screaming other people’s children, scattering the index fingers, and you can easily guess that in French it will be a steamer. Here on it and fall off in your little swimming.
Look at the last boring earthly life with which you – everything can be, – perhaps forever broke up, and there Hotel de la Paix with purely Parisian my attires, with a white cross, which is waggered on the red flag. And at the Beau-Rivage Palace Hotel exactly the same restless flag. A little right – ba! – Grand Casino Noga Hilton. With this "foot" our is not lucky, however, "foot" happens a drup – Hilton This has long been taken for debts for a long time, just too lazy to change sign.
It is difficult not to notice the famous fountain, he beats from the lake – as if what rich whale sailed to the Geneva to relax. The height of the fountain of meters 80, or what. With strong wind, it is turned off, so as not to pour the city center.
And on the shores all the tiled roofs of mansions under the cypresses, with well-kept lawns. Their row is infinite. The point and the case of the eye stumps on the lifting cranes – it means that at speed even more real estate will be here. How many trillion dollars buried in the local shores in the form of real estate! We, I’m afraid all Siberia will be cheaper: here recently, swimming along the Volga, looking at the deserted shores, where rare cheap giving off-road, I wondered: why our luxurious Volzh-Ski shores are not built up with continuous quarters of wonderful houses? And roads to go to work or where? Why so? No answer:
And so we go half an hour, an hour, drinking drinks from the shipbar: And on the shore of the turret with the Swiss flag, under her camping from the campers on the shore, after the fishing meters 100 width, and then – the French tricolor is repeating the pier. Here, near the border, a modest house – in it, Ilyich hid in 1914. I penetrate a high useless feeling: why the unscatorant Swiss swiss their extremists were mercilessly removed, and we were released to sow infection around the world?
Well, sailed. Here you can go, for example, drink local wine – it is beyond and even pleasantly exciting. Swiss wines, so that you know, are made from the varieties of Chassel and Game. They take on them in a restaurant two dollars for every 100 grams, that is, $ 15 per bottle; In Moscow, for a bottle of Georgian, can ask so much in the supermarket. For a snack you will all recommend Filet de Perche (I quote around memory, so, maybe inaccurately), supposedly caught in the lake. In our opinion it will be the perch, from which literally all bones are pulled. It is possible! Some institution will populate itself from the corner – in Geneva the highest density of restaurants in the world! 1100 pieces per 400 thousand people. This may well be something simple style of the Grand Lac restaurant, there on the street under a canopy of lunches and dinners – warm f. Or Cafe Lyrique, rich and with a claim, but the tables to the street also exhibits. Around just theaters, and theaters of theaters enter there to take both before and after the performance – do not crowind in a buffet.
I remember, I sit on somehow for the coffee I read Tribune de Geneve, and there about how the our businessman who is offended when he is called Mikham, leaked at Switzerland 800,000 francs. I poke your finger in the portrait of the hero of the day and ask the waiter:
– You know this gentleman?
He confidently replied:
– So this is a new our Prime Minister! – and added with respect: – And you, too, from there, from this great country.
In the Swiss, catering can be found in the exotic, not only in Moscow, but in Istanbul you will not always meet. Once in the evening after dinner in the waitress cafe (or the hostess), broken bones on the pavement – right under the rear wheels of the parked car.
– These are dogs! – She joyfully reported, answering my admirement look.
And if it pulls on high reflections, go to the Cross-Sky Cathedral, which is on the corner of the TOEPFFER street (named after the writer and the cartoonist, invented by comics) and Le Fort. The temple is real, our, Orthodox. True, there are women without handkerchiefs, and you can pray.
Next follows Lausanne. She is a sign of the Nita with its best in Europe to the Economic University Faculty, founded in the XVI century.
And in the Zoological Museum of the Lausanne University stored butterflies of Nabokov – 4324 copies – according to the Writer’s testament. This collection of experts estimate in half a million dollars. She, however, would cost every 10 cheaper, not be a collector so famous. Most Nabokov loved Licaenidae. This is the largest family of butterflies, about 7,000 species, scattered around the world. Especially many of them in the tropics, somewhere in Southeast Asia, and in Europe there are only about 100 species; In America and that less. They have a strange feature: the males have the front legs are underdeveloped and "walking" do not apply.
Nabokov opened 20 types of butterflies and gave them name. Here are examples. CYLLOPSIS PERTEPIDA DOROTHEA NABOKOV 1942. Her he himself caught in the Grand Canyon. Lysandra Cormion Nabokov 1941. What a Nabokova had a long life, how did he not know how to take it! Even behind the butterflies chased, throwing all the high literature:
Not bad as part of a visit to the vicinity of Lausanne to bite in some rich center of the restaurant type Relais de La Post, which is 115 years ago, it was discovered, as can be seen from the name, with a mailing station on the way to Montre. It is in the village of Grandvaux. It is necessary to sit on the terrace and watch everything on the same lake from top to bottom, for nothing that it is Geneva, and the French Alps on someone else’s shore. By the way, why would they not ride their lake like Baikal? And it comes out dishonest.
Menu de Degustation, in which you will be given to taste the little of different dishes, costs 118 Swiss francs, if with wine. Expensive? Well, this is not Turkey and not even America. It’s funny that fu gras here served with raspberry jam and a couple of grapes. Well, what can be said? To everything man can get used to. Meanwhile, darkest. To cheese, look, everything has changed on the side of the veranda. Blue fog on everything: and the lake, and the mountains, and the sky – all blue. Weak and dull, like Ilyich light bulb, lights in the French shore. Thread of yellowish, reddish light bulbs above the lake in the mountains. But how would the toy train frightened towards Montre. Maybe he went to Venice itself.
Warning to go through the most convincing catering establishments, you can take food at the LE Raisin restaurant of the hotel of the same name, which in Cully town. What is the difference between a very cool restaurant from just good? In the first will not just be waiters in tuxedo, but also sauce of white truffles with fresh juice of green grapes. And almost flat, as if soup, but with a light zubrinkka on the side of the spoon to get this sauce. And the map of the digestives will take a lot of any little, but a whole turn. And the page will be devoted to cigars no cheaper $ 15 per piece. This is all I am about Le Raisin.
And there is also a five-star Le Mirador Hotel, which is in the mountains above Veve. Of these stars "Miradora", By the way, more than the Brezhnev, who did not give the fifth star, I believe, in purely linguistic reasons: after all, within the our language, it was difficult to designate the degree of award – not the five-day Hero of the Soviet Union?
Food there is always smooth, that is, an incredibly high class.
But the exquisite pleasure, the descriptions of which in the guide. We must sit at the table on the balcony of your room at Hotel Au Lac, drink cold beer and look at the lake. And nothing more needs:
From Lausanne by an old steamer, made in 1907, in less than an hour can be reached by Veve and there he was running around the house, where Dostoevsky lived a couple of days, as well as the monument to a quicker in full size – he is a small sprout; It is especially touching because Chaplin without pedestal stands right on the flowerbed. He has a bronze hand in a bronze hand, and it is also usually inserted alive, it is easy to shove into a semi-column fist. And in the hats – also rose, live.
To visit Veve, if the summer is in the yard, it is better to choose Saturday – it is on Saturdays here the winning holidays here are. That is, you buy a glass for 5 francs or a glass for 7 francs and walk all day around the city, and at the tables with local wine placed on every corner, you must pour unconditionally and on the first requirement completely free.
And who pours? And whose turn, he goes to the Saturday to serve the native city. I got on the day when employees of the company stood on the spilling "Nestle". And sometimes on duty "Credit Swiss". You walk, and he is forced to work and bring cups with a pleasant smile:
Wines here are light, then you mean liquid. But I will tell you that if you drink in the morning, then the Swiss wines lie like here and were.