Exotic hybrid on the Indian coast
The state of Goa with its incomparable beaches from the smallest white sand, messenic sunsets and reigning here altogether always considered the pearl of India and the favorite holiday destination. Exotic nature, abundance of diverse food, wine and innocent drinks, the wonderful climate in the winter season is firmly preserved for Goa one of the first places in the ranking of the most popular resorts of South Asia.
The very name of Goa in some circles is associated with a hedonist beach pastime, so popular in the Hippie environment and other marginal youth. But in fact, each of the countless beaches of the 100-kilometer coast of the state attracts their own contingent of tourists – from wealthy Europeans who come to relax for a couple of weeks under the affectionate sun, before traveling by year and more representatives "Alternative" Western Bohemia, a special prosperity of not different.
The idea of Goa as an exceptional, just as the paradise emerged from Europeans almost immediately after in 1498 the Great Portuguese Savior Wasco de Gama landed on the Malabarian shore in search of spices and Christians. Not finding neither one or the other, nevertheless, founded the fort, who laid the beginning of Portuguese colonization. Portuguese dominion continued in Goa for almost 450 years and caused a unique civilizational hybrid to life, in which it was intimatically intended, it would seem incompatible cultures of the East and West.
I barely landed on the coast, the Portuguese energetically began to pay the local population in Christianity. In 1542, Francis Xavier – follower of Ignacio Loiol – founded the first Jesuit mission in Goa. With the arrival of the Inquisition, laws prohibiting any faith except Catholicism were immediately introduced. Hindu temples indulged in fire, and the newlyracted Indians took Portuguese names. Such, for example, as Francisco de Silva, Fernando Corria or Miguel de Suza, still typical of the inhabitants of Goa. Yes, and Christmas (30 percent of the state population – Catholics, the rest – mostly Hindus) copes here with the same enthusiasm as the Hindu feast of Durga.
Many centuries of Portugal managed to resist the excitement of other powers to her small Indian possessions. But everything comes to an end. After finding independence, India ruined diplomatic relations with Portugal, and in 1955, when Portuguese troops opened fire on participants "march for freedom", The enclave was blocked by the Indian army. Trade with bomb stopped, the railway was blocked. (Which was the consequence of the airport in Dabolima.) Finally, the Indians are tired of the stubbornness of the Lisbon dictator of Salazar, who did not want to part with colonial possessions, and in 1961 the Indian army entered GOA. After two-day, purely symbolic resistance, the Portuguese garrison capitulated.
As a result, Goa (together with two other Portuguese Anklas – Daman and Dia) included part of the Indian state and provided the status of a state with broad governments with minimal interference from Delhi.
I must say that GOANTSY is very successfully used first of all in order to defend their national-cultural identity. In the 1980s, the population of Goa unanimously voted against a merger with the neighboring state of Maharashtra and achieved the proclamation of a local conclusion of the official language of the state. Now the authorities of Goa are trying to keep the powerful influx of migrants from other Indian states – in Goa it is believed that the local unique culture simply will not stand such a breath "Chuzhakov".
But while Goa keeps. In architecture, the Romanesque style is still noticeably dominated, the monuments of Portuguese culture are carefully guarded. For example, Pandad or Panja (which means "Unpainted land") who became a new capital of Anklav back in 1848, resembles a typical Portuguese town and has more similarities with Lisbon than with the rest of India. After Bombay and Bangalore, his narrow streets, bordered by palm trees and buildings in the style of neoclassicism please the tourist tired of the characteristic Gary and the mud of Indian cities.
Old Goa (Vella-Goa) is located a few kilometers east of the Pandy, up the Mandodhodi River. During the time of the Inquisition, the Indians have taken here the statues of their deities. But foreign tourists, as well as Pilgrims-Christians from all over India, it attracts primarily with his grand churches and monasteries. Among other Portuguese monuments are the most famous "Arch Vice-Kings", Easmaged in 1597 in memory of the landing of Vasco de Gama. It was built from the same porous red laaterite, which is almost all the other buildings in Goa.
But one architecture features Goa, of course, is not limited. The way of life of the Goatsev itself combines Portuguese and Indian traits. Local cuisine, for example, rich in fish and meat dishes, is not typical for the rest of India. Yes, and in general, there are no diet restrictions in Goa, typical of other Indian states. Vegetarianism here is associated more with poverty than with purity. The inhabitants of Goa love meat, especially pork, also fresh seafood in any form. Mussels, snails, crabs, lobsters, giant shrimps – all this beauty in harmonious symbiosis with fragrant sharp seasonings ("Masala") Served in unlimited quantities in dozens of prestigious restaurants overlooking the sea.
Another significant difference is the widespread presence of alcoholic beverages. In Goa, the lowest price in India is the price of beer (30 rupees a bottle of good cold beer at the rate of about 40 rupees per dollar). And the license for its sale in the state has almost 6.000 bars. In addition, you can taste local folk drinks – "Feni" and "Todi"- Goan variants of mogon, which are expelled, respectively, from cache and palm juice nuts. Often it is possible to observe a fairly unusual picture: dozens of women and girls, crawling on the ground, collect some flowers. Called they "Maua". They are dried, boiled, the resulting liquid defend and sell. Taste, it is necessary to confess, pretty disgusting, and the fortress to forty degrees does not reach. But if this business is properly filtering and standing throughout the year, it turns out an amazing thing, after which only two hours of sleep is enough to restore forces, does not hurt a head and a wonderful mood.
Local Red Wine – usually sweet. White – sparkling or ordinary – is considered inexpensive and intended for customers without special requests. Whiskey, brandy, rum, gin and vodka are found under different names and cost less than 10 rupees for a glass.
By the way, in the 60s, tourism in Goa began to flourish mainly due to the free attitude towards drinks, drugs and nudism, not to mention abundance of the most essential food and housing. And therefore pioneers on this exotic coast of hippie. However, as the glory grew by these places, the marginal minority was gradually supplanted, and the most affordable sectors near the state of the state turned into ordinary "Mainstream" Resorts.
"Alternative" Community in the meantime migrated to the north along the coast. Legendary "Bottling with full moon" Preserved to this day, despite frequent police. They continue like a magnet, attract celebrating tourists, especially during the New Year holidays.
Which beaches you will choose on arrival, depends mainly on what kind of rest you prefer. Resorts with highly developed infrastructure of the type of calangut and Vagi in the north, as well as collections in the south, provide all the possibilities for full shopping and comfortable rest. Of these, the most business and commercial – Calangute. In the 70-80s, this, once a quiet and modest fishing village supported the reputation of Hippie’s Ribbons. Now they almost completely displaced the wave "Mainstream". Because you wouldn’t go, remember that there is no nudism in the calangut, like bathing "Topless". Police patrols watch this very strict. At the same time, the Calangut is pleasantly different from many modern Asian resorts, where the people are like in an anthill. Most of the hotels are small, two-story, they are hiding in the dunes for the soundproof coffe of coconut palm trees. British teacher leads yoga courses for art gallery "Flying Dutchman". The most popular nightclub "Tito" Open up to 11 nights in the dead season, and he is buzzing until the morning in December-January.
Next for the calangut to north – Vaga Beach. It is harder to find accommodation here, since most hotels are rented by charter companies, even rooms in small guest houses are ordered long before the start of the season.
Anjuna, Vagator and Chapor – this "Tusovka" Beaches for those who arrived in Goa with the intention to have fun. Most "alternative" Beach – Anjuna Beach with painted fluorescent paint palm trees and an indispensable celebration of full moon. The reasons for the arrival of most tourists here are the same as they were in the 70s: herb, dance and relaxed felting on the beach. Actually, it is because of the beach of Anjuna so popular with Hippie. Swimming here is much safer than most other places. Especially good in the quiet southern part of the beach, where the rocky cape does not give the elements to raise and minimizes the reverse sage stream.
The season in Andun begins in early November, when regular customers are tightened here, and ends at the end of March, when they go home. During the Christmas and New Year "Fever" The village is flooded by a detachment Vataga wandering around the world representatives of Bohemia in shabby jeans and with backpacks. True, you can immediately meet and respectable young people who escaped boredom English clubs in the hope of participating in the night beach increasing. Nevertheless, when you did not get there, do not lose vigilance: theft in big go, especially on the beach.
With the placement of Tugovo. Maximum, to which you can qualify without prior order – a small unclear house. Although at the height of the season and this is not guaranteed. But with food problems. Anjuna repletes first-class establishments, most of them specialize in fish dishes and food, familiar to Western man. Cold beer is served in all institutions. In addition, on the beach every 5-10 minutes you can go to the saleswomen of fresh fruits and offer watermelon, pineapple or coconut.
Nightlife concentrates in "Shore bar", located in the middle of the beach. There is a powerful speaker system. At the steps of the bar, a crowd is going to a sunset under the accompaniment of the newest trance discs delivered directly from London. With the onset of the night, the music is becoming louder, quiet for the hour to eleven. Then the crowd is relocated in "Guru-bar", that nearby, or in a cafe "Primrose" on the next beach Vagator, where you can sit fruitfully and after midnight.
If you have a desire to imagine how the state was 20-30 years ago, go to Arabol – a modest fishing village with hippie camp on the outskirts.
The best time to travel to Goa is dry, relatively cool months – from around the end of September to the beginning of March. At another time, either the sun is too shipar, or the monsoon rains turn your vacation from the actively cheerful in passive and unlightened. Rain on hand only fishermen and owners of hotels.
In the peak of the season – from mid-December to the end of January – the weather is simply gorgeous, the thermometer’s column does not rise above 32 degrees. Can be sunbathing and swimming without fear of sun burns. Only find accommodation at this time is quite difficult, despite the double, and then the triple price increase.
Get in Goa in different ways. The optimal place for the start – Bombay, where aircraft of Aeroflot fly from Moscow. From the Bombay itself there are whole four options: Again the plane in an hour, by train per day, a comfortable sleeping bus for 15-18 hours or catamaran for 10 hours. As a rule, tourists come first in Panday, from where it can be reached by local bus, for example, to Anjuna. Or use cheap rental of local vehicles.
If the chaos of Indian roads does not confuse, then you can take a bike, which will cost somewhere around the dollar a day. You can rent a car that costs about 700 rupees per day, or a car with a driver (100-150 rupees per hour). The most common type of transport in Panjim, as, however, in all of India, – authorik. It is worth such a trip pretty cheap – about 5 rupees per kilometer, but the fee is better to specify in advance, since it is very often on arrival in place you can call the amount much higher than the original announced. Actually, all this is quite typical for India, and therefore vigilance is needed in financial matters. Travel, if you do not have allergies to this ancient eastern custom.
Motorcycle – unconditionally cool, but unsafe vehicle, taking into account the left-hand movement and a complete anarchy on the roads. Particularly neat should be at night – you can easily please in a hole or to fall on a lost cow, and even on the telegu left by someone. Official to rent any vehicle with an engine over 25 cubic meters. cm international driver’s license. True, rollingrs rarely look at it. But the local police used to appoint stunning fines – because the main Bakshish is obtained from foreign tourists. If you have not been right with you, the only way to get around this problem is to avoid major cities, such as Panjim, Margao and Mapus (or Anjuna on a market day).
The price of the rental varies depending on the type of vehicle and the term for which you take it. Most owners require a solid deposit or passport as a guarantee of their safety preservation. Good motorcycle with engine capacity 350 cube. see 250 rupees per day; less powerful but more reliable scooter "Honda" (100 cubic meters. cm) with an automatic transmission 100-120 rupees, and light, fairly fast, economical and reliable "Yamaha" (100 cubic meters. cm) with manual transmission will cost 150-200 rupees per day.
All this can be useful, for example, in order to get to the Dudsagar waterfall, which is on the border of Goa with the state of Karnataka. This is a stunning spectacle. "Dudsagar" translated from the conquen "Milk Sea". Named waterfall so because of the clouds of splashes and foam, constantly hanging over a broken flow. The best time to visit the waterfall – immediately after the monsoon rains (October-December), although in April he does not lose its appeal.
But the main wealth of Goa is still beaches and, of course, a completely unique spiritual atmosphere, which turned this resort in the place of peculiar pilgrimage. On the southern tip of Anjuna, I happened to get acquainted with the amazing Englishman, the owner of several paraglians, which he for a small fee suggests a new "Ikaram". An Englishman introduced as a parva, although from birth he – Alan. The new name assigned him to his guru after a four-year stay in India. Half a year old Parva spends in London, six months – in India, but not during the season, when it is full of people, but a little with a shift in the hot months (April-May), when you can easily enjoy the eternal idyll of the sun, sand and surf, without being distracted by numerous vacationers. Together with the handsome Italian Polaol – a professional flight instructor, Parva organized his small business here, delivering to people the enchanting feeling of the first in the life of the coast. And for a very moderate fee (about 10 dollars for a quarter of an hour of parishing over the Indian Ocean).
I want to remember the good word English or, or rather, the Anjun hospitality: I was offered a place at the table under the roof of the cozy tiny private coffee house, treated with a corporate customer hookah, which is started in a circle, like a world tube in American Indians.
But sooner or later you have to return. To start in Bombay. By the way, we will finally go to a pleasant tour of the boat on the nearest Elephant Island, which is three miles from the port. This picturesque island is famous for the man-made caves of the VII century with huge, carved from stone statues of gods and goddesses. In addition, there are a lot of beautiful souvenirs: sinks, corals, necklaces, caskets from camel bones – not to describe everything, it is better to see at least once. And fill your backpack with the iridescent gifts of Indian artisans for the remaining rupee.