Ethiopia is far?
Author of this material Professional journalist who worked in East Africa for many years. Then changed the profession and now heads the travel agency. Recently, ten years later, he again visited Ethiopia, about which we now hear very rarely.
Checking for twenty-five years: mountain wind, mixed with the brightest sunlight and Lyapis-Azure of the sky, meets you at the airport Bole always. Even if this happens at least five minutes, at least once in many years. Addis Ababa brings you this cocktail and all. You fell.
This translation from the Amharic name of the Ethiopian capital.
Addis Ababa, roses. On the shore of the transparent streams. So begins acrosth Nikolai Gumileva dedicated to Akhmatova. Roses and other colors are still a lot, the streams have no three million today’s inhabitants of them simply drank. The young capital of her one hundred and small years lately seeded in the center and ragged on the outskirts. Collapse of directive socialism (thank God, this regime lasted only seventeen years) attracted new capital, noticeable in size. But they are used without much taste, and therefore new buildings on old roads will cut a look yet accustomed to them. Only open restaurants are sterile and little interesting, and the old weathered, got out of fashion and empty.
There is no attention to these reflexion of the former correspondent of the TASS, from dawn to sunset iron, from six in the morning to six in the evening filling streets. Ten years ago, people were three times less. Demonstrating some almost acting vitality, they sit down in hundreds of route taxis, occupy places in offices, relying countless shops and shops, split to school and makes it easy to go. Rare European passerby every boy welcomes with the exclamation of you!, Inserting a powerful charge of positive emotions into it.
I’m trying to imagine that it will be interesting to a new person, tourist or traveler. Temples and churches are definitely. Ethios of Christians. Their church belongs to the monophimitsky, Dohotcedonian churches. But they are very close to Orthodoxy, and it is scattered in the air. The visits will not pass by the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, where the last descendant of King Solomon finally was restored, the last emperor Ethiopia Heily Selussie. And the top of Mount Entoto is another eight hundred meters over two thousand four hundred Addis Ababa itself, and the church of St. Mary at the very top. Here was married to the kingdom The Great Team of Ethiopia Menelik II. A foreigner will not be able to Markato Mount, the largest Eastern African market. He will go to the perfectly organized national and ethnographic museums. And, of course, tremble shops, full of magnificent silver products, leather, amber and wood.
But cruel disappointment. I could not find Itagu, the former nanny of my children and one of the most noble people I met in life. The poor quarter in which she lived, gave way to the freeway, and no one could explain to me where his inhabitants.
Geographically undoubtedly. Geopolitically, perhaps, too: here Headquarters of the Organization of African Unity. But very much raises Ethiopia over regional history.
Start with the fact that in 1974 it was indisputable by the palm of the cradle of world humanity. Here, the Skeleton of Women’s Humanoids, who received the name of Lucy was found here in the lower river Avash. For three and a half million years, Lucy has preserved perfectly.
The first written mention of Ethiopia five thousand years. Then the Jewish page of its history: Tsarina Sava, the local government, and the biblical king Solomon give birth to Mealica, the founder of the dynasty of Ethiopian emperors who interrupted in the direct 225th knee only in 1974. Christianity here installed in the IV century. But Ethiopia was a religious tolerant for example, in relation to the spread of Islam, and this allowed to stop religious wars in the Middle Ages.
In Ethiopia, in Africa independent writing, to study which there is a decent thing. This syllable letter suggests knowledge 231 combinations of signs. Unread old manuscripts in the church-language geese still much more than read and mastered. Here is a special calendar, which is now in the yard of 1993, dividing every year for thirteen months (hence two wonderful tourist slogans: visit the country where the sun shines thirteen months a year! And come to Ethiopia to become for seven years younger!).
Everything here happened in true biblical scenery. And the one who had a chance to climb the mountain serpentine in Wallo Province, so as to look around the eagle to take green-golden expanses of the virgin and fertile land; The one who tuscal trouts from the mountain rivers of the Balle Reserve; The one who dust in the endless desert on the border with Somalia, and the next day was sitting in the shadow of the birch on the banks of the reservoir, which supplies the water Addis Ababa, and admired daisies in the grass; For that one million one hundred thousand square kilometers of the territory of Ethiopia turn into a huge, unparalleled home.
Russia, Ethiopia, again Russia
Christianity tied us off. At the end of the last century, Russia sent the Mission of the Red Cross to Ethiopia, welcoming a truly striking victory of the home-grown, otherwise you will not say, Ethiopian weapons over advanced Italian in the battle at Adua. Perfect motivation was exactly the help of uninterests. More than one hundred years our diplomatic relations.
The period from the middle of the seventies before the beginning of the nineties could be considered gold for our relations if he did not take place against the background of another socialist experiment for the USSR in someone else’s territory. Hundreds of Soviet military advisers, doctors, teachers, oil workers, builders, gold kits and agronomists worked in Ethiopia. I remember even the director of the canning plant from somewhere with Kuban, who helped Ethiopia with her huge livestock livestock to master the production of stews. And there was no more or less decent media that would not hold Corpolation in Ethiopia.
All this lived, moved, thundered sometimes wasted. Something made up and immediately forgot about the deed. Ethiopian and our characters were sometimes merged in parasitic symbiosis, complementing to complete perfection mutual perhaps, attachment, optional, as well as evilness and oaths sooner or later achieve an incredible result.
After the 91st, when our zealman Mengista High Miriam fell, how cut off. I promise a premium to anyone who will find somewhere in the our media a decent article about what is happening in a huge and most interesting country. In Addis Ababa only continues to be honestly and productively work the hospital of the our Red Cross, for half a century, facilitating the fate of five million patients, and the our cultural center, the former constant Soviet exhibition. And the true shock was for me to see in his library dozens of young people filling out the entire hall. They moved together to her lips, studying our!
Beautiful people bring together. You walk down the street and happy, and smile: the psyche reacts like that beautiful faces. Women? First of all, but it is so everywhere. What a nation is not proud of his female face? And the fact that my wife and other our women openly admire the beauty of Ethiopok, says for himself. The crowd is beautiful and sympathetic in general. European features painted with a wide range of coffee color (I’m not talking about the periphery of the country, there you can meet representatives of other races). You often remember that the modern name of the country is eating an ancient Greek people with tanned people. When someone is looking for, you are asked: what kind of, black or not very?. But this means only the color, there is not a drop of racism.
The similarity of Ethiopses with a subsidiary of tanned Europeans binds some kind of relationship and reduces a significant part of the path that each person must pass before communication with another human person. And there are very funny cases: I knew Ethiopa as two drops of water similar to Leonid Kuravlev, only almost black! If we consider that he also spoke freely in our, like many in the Addis Ababa 80s, the effect was strong.
Well, children black angels. Their faces are able to melt the heart of any villain before he has time to count to ten. In the reverse flight, the adorable children flew with us from about three to eight years. They were taken through Frankfurt to France to convey to receiving parents. Very old in Europe and in America a phenomenon to adopt Ethiopian children.
And dresses ether with two main ways or both in the world, or to national clothing. The latter does not look archaic and turns out to face everyone who puts it. Chamma Cape (plus dress in the case of a beautiful floor), made of very thin and very dense gauze, decorate, because always white snow and embroidered with impeccable taste, and warms very noticeable that in the Allegal regions, the most populated, vital. Are many people in rags? In the third world, this question is excessive, and yet I must say that this nation of your lohmotyev tries not to show.
Food, Alcohol and Coffee
Food in Ethiopia Special article. They do not get tightened immediately, but from some moment you begin to notostanimously lies to a combination, called Inger-Wtt. The first element of the light gray nosed pellet, soft as velvet, about half a meter in diameter. It is spread on equal in the size of a tin dish and the element of the second narcotically sharp spicy pepper from pepper Berbury, which can be prepared almost all edible: meat, bird, vegetables, fish. But always separately. There are only hands, please, no knives! Tear off the piece of incites, capture them how much I will seem to the sticks on the fingers will surely remain the fragrance. The most delicious piece of the mistress, if you are visiting, can put you in your mouth with your own fingers. This is Gursia. You can not refuse! After that (or before, or immediately) will bring Tbsbs in a special way, rods, sliced pieces of meat, fried with green pepper. Pepper red ground is always nearby, like his antipode in Ethiopian cuisine, homemade cottage cheese, designed to quench the rampant fiery sharpness. And those who are scared of this natural for Ethiopia anti-gastrointestinal lp component can taste Allov. This is a stewed dish, where spices although they do not give up and are not amenable to European analysis, but forced to clean this plate.
The most desperate, equal to the harsh Ethiopian soldiers, will prefer raw meat. Can be a piece, slicing it from the impressive part of the calf, grown specifically as a dish. Curve, some, but very acutely honed knife always lies near. And if raw meat is fed in the form of minced, then it is Kytfo. And it is better than any French tartar stack.
We drink all the tenge. In principle, this is a honey braga, but some very much here is a bad. The color happens like a milk amber (if domestic), then transparent as a tear (whose?) If in the European Ethiopian restaurant. And if you want to get closer to the ground then Talla, barley beer. Having written this word, the author shuddered. From Tall sometimes get closer to the ground in the literal sense.
Finally, a coffee ceremony. The word coffee itself, understandable on the entire planet, is derived from the name of the Ethiopian Caff province. The legend of the origin of the coffee is as follows: goats have been keen on some berries from large bushes and began to quickly frustrate. Observation monks were welded from the grains of these berries. Here are your coffee. In the hall where you are a trape, in a special red corner on a special podium, a good-natured Ethiopian is sitting in national clothes. Fimyami smokes, Mirra and incense, which, how to stay from the remarks! Egyptian pharaohs bought in these parts three thousand years before the Nativity of Christ. Coffee from a hot clay vessel, in the clay and small cups. What you thought coffee before is not true. It’s just a weak imitation. In particularly advanced ceremonies, Ten Adam’s grass is present, Adam’s health, which is added to the cups of men participating for purposes that are not biased interpretation. However, women are sprig too.
And all this time Ethiopian music. Pentatonika, noted by the ear heard that it was necessary, enlightened me the People’s Artist of Azerbaijan Tamilla Makhmudova, who came to Addis Ababu on Tour. Really there are only five of them in the range, these sounds that are irritating from delight in a complaint without any seams holding you in the arms that do not give you to leave?
Tourist in Ethiopia?
In Ethiopia, I just met with colleagues, travel agency managers. Both private and state tour operators do not hide their interest in the our market. And, by the way, show quite adequate understanding. The image of Russia in today’s Ethiopia is quite high and not very prone to political conjuncture.
Main issue of tourists’ safety. We talked about the main points of the Ethiopian hit parade. Tana Lake with unique round churches on the islands and the nearby Waterfall of thousands of thousands from where it takes the beginning of the Blue Nile, the source of life for many continent countries. The absolute miracle, Lalibel, a complex of churches cut down in the body, is not very famous outside the country, the ether themselves do not want to be flooded by tourists. The ancient capital of the country Gondar. Alpine Semien Reserve here lives many representatives of flora and fauna, found only here. Aksum with his huge steles, about the origin and dating of which scientists still argue. Some believe that it is here that can be hidden with a genuine, Moiseyev, in which the Ten Commandments were inscribed by the finish of God.
About every point Interlocutors said: Safe, you can go. And then I want to take advantage of the right of expert assessment. Ethiopia people supersensitive to what they call Security. They are tired of violence. If you can tell you here or go, it means it’s true.
On the eve of the departure, I met the Serb who lived in this country half a century and married to Ethiopkaya by the way, it was she who came up with a slogan about how to become for seven years younger. The name is Thomas Matanovich, he is the owner and director of the agency Travel Ethiopia. He caught fire a our idea. Yes, Serb. But for him we are talking about ours reiterated the routes from Nikolai Gumileva, who went to Ethiopia and repeatedly here. Re-read his poems and understand why you need to visit this country. I, unfortunately, not a poet.