Amanda-fields Around the globe Trip tips

Careless fear

Careless fear

Paris is not only the capital of fashion, this city has long become Mecca for gourmets around the world. True, most of our compatriots quench the evening hunger in the first cafe near the cafe next to the hotel, and the most organized tourist groups are aimed in advance on places such as Lido, Moulin Rouge or restaurant boats with a glass roof, circling on Seine. In such cases, all memories of Parisian cuisine are usually reduced to a mandatory bottle of champagne, fua-gras, a piece of meat in a sauce of acidic wine and inevitable subsequent gravity in the stomach. At the same time, in no way speaking against a visit to Parisian shows or walks on a river tram, I believe that we will visit Paris and pleasure massively banquet cuisine – a crime.

Believe me, visiting any of the four restaurants (Ducasse, Ledoyen, Taillevent, Le Cinq), which make up today the top of the Paris Haut Cuisine (high kitchen) will make an indelible impression on you. And it’s not just a fantastic kitchen, but also in unreal for our country service level. Miscellaneous returned from the fourth of the leaders and the remaining three- and two-star restaurants of Paris (on the authoritative rating of Michelin). Immediately it is worth a reservation that, choosing one of these institutions, it is easy to find that the table had to be ordered at least a month.

Nevertheless, try luxury "high" restaurant at least once in life worth. Keep in mind that on Sunday and Monday, most of the serious places are closed, and on Thursday evening and especially Fridays to order a table much more difficult than on Tuesday and Wednesday. If you failed to order in advance, it does not mean that you will not be able to try high kitchen. Give the receptionist in the hotel ?10 And ask to find today evening "Multi-star" Restaurant with refusal of booking. Tuesday from 16.00 to 18.00 It always works, on Friday after 19.00 – almost never. And do not forget that in such places in jeans and sneakers do not go.

If you do not consider yourself an expert on table etiquette, do not be afraid to show it in a restaurant – the service will be actually friendly and unobtrusive. True, the menu is likely to be uninformative for you, but it is not scary. Find a tasting section in which it is suitable for the price set of dishes. If you do not abuse expensive drinks, even in the most luxurious restaurants lunch can put in ?500 for two, including two champagne glasses, a bottle or two excellent (but not very famous) wine, dessert, coffee and tips. To extend the pleasure, buy a souvenir from the wardrobe with the emblem of the institution and proudly demonstrate to friends during the story of your Paris Impressions, carelessly mentioning the name of the Hollywood Star, who was sitting at the next table. You will most likely lie to you.


In Sunny October Day I do not want to lock for lunch in four walls, but for a picnic already cold. Natural compromise for sophisticated Parisian is in this case a restaurant with a view. Almost every tourist arriving in Paris passes by the restaurant Jules Verne, located at an altitude of just over 100 meters above the ground (the second tier of the Eiffel Tower). This institution boasts a separate elevator built into the southern support of the famous tower, and one Michelin star, obtained by the efforts of the Chef Alena Recomm.

Medium-sized hall decorated at the beginning of the 20th century in a futuristic style (tribute to the Great Writer-Wisdom) and is clearly designed to look at night Paris. If you sit near the window in the afternoon, then besides the dull Marsov fields, you can only see the edge of Invalides – the Museum of the Army. At night, the restaurant, like the whole tower, undergoes the magical transformation. That’s just the price of magic "Jules Verna" bite truly: a normal dinner with a bottle of inexpensive wine and mineral water departs for ?200 per person and it’s without coffee and tip. For one-little restaurant, it is expensive even in Paris standards, especially since nothing special in prepared in "Jules Verne" I did not notice dishes. Nevertheless, the establishment is very popular with rich foreign tourists, and you can only order a table there for a couple of months.

At a significantly higher level there is a restaurant in Tour Montparnasse, which occupies the last, 59 floor of the highest in France skyscraper. Unfortunately, this applies only to a physical height of about 200 meters above the Earth. The level of the local kitchen approaches the rotating restaurant of the Ostankino Tower (though, in the best of his years). Although the view of Paris opens very interesting, especially at sunset. Get ready to give ?7.50 per ticket for elevator. If we decided to admire Paris from the height, keep in mind that lunch (Lunch) with a glass of wine in the panoramic restaurant Le Ciel de Paris stands ?42. Do not advise dinner here – expensive, tasteless and terrible service.

At the very edge of the Boulogo forest, not far from the hippodrome, on the shore of the forest stream there is a pavilion, built in 1850 for recreation leaving for the city of Napoleon III. Now in this pavilion there is a restaurant La Grande Cascade, decorated in style "Retro metro". There are three cabinets here, in which 2 to 50 people can accommodate, and in one of them there is a valid fireplace. In the main hall, the name of Napoleon III, carefully preserved decor of the middle of the last century. From the large windows of the terrace overlooking the Boulogne forest and a small waterfall. The private atmosphere of the establishment and the author’s cuisine Chef Jean-Louis Nomomiko deserves, in my opinion, more than one star in the Rating of Michelin. Tasting menu stands here ?140 for two, which when adding mineral water, a bottle of good wine, two glasses of inexpensive champagne and two cups of coffee leads to a budget ?120 per person. More than tolerant, given the high level of kitchen and historical entourage.

As for other crowned persons, it is impossible not to recall June 7, 1867 in the course of the Paris exhibition called dinner. At the table met our Tsar Alexander II, Penglish Wilhelm I, Prince Bismarck and the heir of the our throne, the future emperor Alexander III. Historians claim that the politics on that dinner did not come in a time – people just got ready to drink and eat. The meeting took place in the oldest Paris restaurant Tour D"Argent – our cardinal Richelieu’s beloved institution. The hotel with a restaurant under this title was opened on the seach of the Seine back in 1582. The modern restaurant is located on the last floor of a repeated rebuilt building, erected at the place of an old hotel. From the windows of the main hall opens a unique view of the cradle of Paris – Site Island (former Lutection Island). Starting from 1650 in Tour D"Argent traditionally serves dishes from young ducks. Today, together with each submitted Salon Duck, the client receives a certificate containing detailed pedigree of this bird. Unique way to cook duck "in TRANSDARJANSKY" can be observed directly from the dining room. True, the famous dish that served in two nodes will not call, like many other rarities, traditional for old French cuisine. Probably for this reason now the restaurant has only one star Michelin. But service and wine cellar – above all praise. Here is served the best in the city of marinated fua-gras of its own production and wonderful desserts. Do not forget to carefully inspect the permanent exposition of the museum at the restaurant – you will find a lot of interesting discoveries. For touching antiquity will have to pay no less ?250 per person – history requires victims. By the way, this is one of the very few decent restaurants opened on Sundays.

Fish in French

Fish dishes will get to your eyes almost in any Paris menu. Of the specialized expensive institutions worth named the fashionable restaurant of the Chef Sivellów with the same name on the Rue Universite 107. Mischlen’s star, luxurious finish in pastel colors, perfectly harmonizing with comfortable bright blue chairs, favorable left-bank location and high level of service are adjusted for the price for "Fish Market" Before the mark above ?250 per person. The most expensive oysters in the city! Fortunately, in Paris there are many decent fish establishments with a much more affordable price.

Among the most interesting fish restaurants should not be noted La Luna, located on Rue du Rocher, 69 (metro station Villiers). It’s two steps from Gare St-Lazare. From the street, a signboard with the title is almost not visible, but from afar, the restaurant emblem is noticeable – a stylized image of a fish, indicating the specialization of the institution. The hall is small, decorated in the Art Deco style. The menu is short and changing every day. This is due to the fact that the chef institution of the institution Michel Shugeel himself leaves Paris at six in the morning in order to have to buy the freshest atlantic fish "From board" On the largest fish market in France Rungis. For the opening of the restaurant, it is already known that it is today bought and what will be prepared from it. Do not be surprised – instead "Take from chef" You will be served a huge bowl with delicious little shells boiled in a special sauce. The recipe for sauce is not disclosed, but it clearly can guess the presence of white wine and olive herbs. Fish dishes, seashells San Jacques (so here are called sea scallops), langustins and lobsters are wonderful. True, traditional minimalism is considered a tradition in this institution. You will not find complex garnings or multi-colored sauces.

But the genuine passion of the chef and the main attraction of the restaurant are oysters. In our distant morning fish markets, the Oyster is considered good if it is fresh, that is, there was still alive in the process of opening the shell. In Moscow it is believed that, regardless of the variety, the more Oyster, the better (and more expensive). Sorts and size, of course, are important, but no less important for the taste of oysters, according to Mr. Shuanel, the composition of water at the place of their breeding. And this composition is subject to change associated with the change of fresh flows in the river deltas and other natural factors. Therefore, every year in September, the Chef La Luna goes to Normandy to choose a supplier and spends there for several days, shooting samples with oysters of a new harvest. The result is simply an enchanting: Oysters in La Luna differ in taste from standard, like blue chicken, fisherous flour, from a delicacious Bress Pulling. Do not forget to order a bottle of white Burgundy to oysters – in this restaurant Wine and most of the dishes from the menu will not make serious damage to your wallet, your account will easily fit into ?75 on the nose with tea. Dessert Here I do not advise you, limit the cup of coffee.

Even more accessible from 1903 Beer La Rotonde on Montparnasse Boulevard, 105, where a decent fish dinner will cost ?40 with wine. Among the our tourists, Le Grand Cafe Des Capuccines, located at the crossroads of tourist routes, was popular, which turned it into a passage yard.

Special place among my Paris preferences occupies an unusual establishment of Chen-Soleil D"EST on Rue Theater, 15, located literally in the residential hotel for immigrants from Asia on the Seine. Considering the location of this Chinese restaurant and the undoubted xenophobia of the French critics, which has a star of Michelin, who has a star of Michelin can be considered for two. The fact that the owner and chef FUNG CHING CHEN is managed to do from fresh European seafood and authentic eastern components that are regularly delivered from Taiwan, cannot be described. Almost every copyright dish hides a culinary riddle in himself, to solve it – the present pleasure for any gourmet. Dinner here stands from ?50 T ?150 per person depending on the choice of dishes.

Provincial stars

Significant, if not most of the high-kitchen matters prefers to live and create, without immersing in the bustle of large cities. A tireless couple of hours to Lyon, another hour on the local train – and right before leaving the Royal Station – a hotel-restaurant with a famous letter "T". If you choose a car as a transport – keep in mind that it’s not always easy to leave the big Paris, instead of the planned three hours a trip can take more than five. In any case, the restaurant of the Troisgros family, almost forty years proudly carrying three stars of Michelin, there is such a journey. Especially since the cozy hotel, a quiet bar, a specially selected library and raised everywhere paintings by modern artists allow you to relax and relax before the main event of any trip – dinner. Attention, in the middle of the week, the restaurant can be closed – order a table in advance.

Traditional Kulinary Troisgros Culinary School is impossible to confuse with anything. Special attention is paid here to lemons and various complex compositions of vinegar. Intrusive main theme do not call here. There are a slightly sour tomato sauce that shaves the taste of small ravioli, and served to fish carpaccio with white mushrooms Capers. Even used for lobster gentle butter is enhanced by grass with sourness with sour. Exotic Tamarounds shall be chicken taste of frogs, citrus kumquats suddenly and very appropriately harmonize with the favorite author of the RIS de Veau. The name of the last dish is modestly translated by critics belonging to the beautiful half of humanity as "Cow groove iron". Not a cow, and bull, and not a dick, and very conversely. Of the serious content of the wine cellar, we managed to enjoy a powerful ruby ​​Vosne-Romanee Les Brules and very well-defined copyright dishes Clos Des Mouches. Listed in detail all classic and recently invented Troisgros dishes I will not, I will only say that many of the approaches of this family have ever called the classics of modern kitchen. Acquaintance with this classic is not less ?250 per person and then if you save a lot on drinks. We must take into account that you have to give as much as the hotel room.

Institution of another legend of French high-cuisine Matra Field Bound – President created by the same culinary academy and a contest of his name – wears a pretended modest name "inn" (L"Auberge) and located on the park embankment of the Sonya River in the near suburbs of Ancient Lyon Pont De Collonges. Richly painted outside and gold-plated from the inside complex buildings otherwise "Palace of cooking" Not called. Luxurious interior, huge paintings with the image of the Matra, black gatekeeper and the acting mechanical phasharmonium of the last century. From the oscillations menu it is worth mentioning the fragrant truffle soup, designed by order of the Elysée Palace, worth ?80 for the plan.

Another womb can be Bress Powarning for you ?140, however, a portion cooked in hermetic "bubble" (EN Vessie), really big. Puely called a delicious chicken, which in favor of gourmet since childhood was deprived of the ability to carry eggs. In the city of Bresse, they will be filled with a special secret method that gives meat special softness and fragrance. By the way, from this year, so as not to anger the defenders of animals, the dish in the menu is modestly called "Poultry Mother Fiya" (Volaille "Mere Fillioux"). Attentive Sommelier advised me to order a bottle of local Condrieu Coteau de Vernon harvesting 2000 and Cote-Rotie Le Grand Places. Once again, I was convinced that outstanding French wines Even in an expensive restaurant can be not very expensive (within ?150) if you are in France.

The most economical menu is here ?115, traditional – ?195 without drinks. And in fact, practically about each dish you can say: classical traditions in the purest form. Before the mandatory action around the trolley with cheeses, ending meals, regulars always ordered the freshest white homemade cheese en faisselle and La Creme Double, written literally with you. No rigorous innovations that have not been checking for decades, in this temple of high kitchen are not allowed, you like it or not. But the Master’s eighty-year-old anniversary who celebrated this year will be suitably suitable for your table, swinging the impressions of a fuzzy service, which is characteristic of any restaurant with such a number of at the same time dulling customers.

Restaurant With a quiet Hotel Relais Bernard Loiseau in the Saulieu resort town (250 km of South Paris) by the efforts of Patrick Berrod’s chef, for several years, for several years, the three stars of Michelin have been held, conquered by Bernarr Louazo himself. Behind the walls of the ancient Chateau, carefully re-equipped in a five-star hotel, a huge garden with pools and a small waterfall spread. In this area, Burgundy make beautiful wines (the most expensive in the local store is worth ?40). And not a single tourist from the CIS will meet on the street, if it is important to someone. After a walk to the forest lake, it seems to be a classic foie gra-gras and a local forest dove. Escargo Here baked with cream and almond oil, a truly milk lamb literally melts in the mouth. And the desserts are undoubtedly the skate of this restaurant and, like beautiful coffee, are certainly used by guests in the garden, if the weather allows.

Careless fear

Comprehensive menus here are worth ?120 T ?185 without drinks, and portions are not in Paris big. If you make friends with a sommelier, first-class fragrant burgundy will cost no more ?50 for the bottle – twice cheaper than in three hours of ride by the French capital. Very good was Clos Des Mouches from the BEAUNE Burgundy region from one of the oldest French winemakers DROUCHIN, which we raised still at the Matra Trugar. Mark "Clos" The French, attentive to any little things, meaning that the vineyard is fenced with a high wall.

One of the strongest in life of culinary and aesthetic impressions for me was a visit located 55 kilometers from Saulieu in the city of St-Pere-en-vezelay restaurant L"Esperance. The chef and the owner of the institution of Mark Meno turned on the banks of the Burgundy Cateau with a small vineyard in the real garden of pleasures for modern gourmets. Such unusual to taste oysters in jelly from sea water, such a harmonious combination of calf kidney with RIS de Veau, who accepted the classic VOL AU VENT form, did not try anywhere before. Even primitively simple at first view of the Vegetarian dish Collection de Quatre Petits Legumes (can be briefly translated as "Four vegetables") hides in yourself not one culinary secret. The gentle fillet of the young pikes, the relative of the cod, served here with the truffles, and the pigeon suddenly occurs on a plate with Omar. A rare bottle in our edges of Chapelle-Chambertine from Trapet, ordered by the Council of Sommelier, turned out to be a real discovery. A wonderful set of local cheeses precedes a female desserts, which are traditionally served in the garden in good weather. Day lunch here will cost ?90 with wine, in the evening behind the menu will have to lay out more ?200. Not a pity, since the three-star status of this restaurant is clearly crazy. I wonder what "Four storage" There is a mysterious way here that the hotels does not apply to some rooms.

Inexpensive pleasure

Even if part of your budget scheduled for dinner in Paris is about ?30 per person – do not despair. In France, there are also inexpensive restaurants of national cuisine, the existence of which many gourmets do not even suspect. True, find an inexpensive restaurant with excellent cuisine on crowded streets you will not succeed. They are hiding in the alleys, and sometimes hide in the literal sense – you caress regular visitors from noisy tourists. At the same time it is worth considering several important points that will help to escape from ruin. If your budget is strictly limited, avoid champagne in bottles, black caviar, giant shrimps, lobsters and mollusks "Abalon", and "Digestives" After dinner. In case you do not think a good dinner without a glass or a few vodka, clap the cup in the hotel room before going to the restaurant. If you do not have a minibar or room service for this, save a bunch of money. By the way, brandy in French stores stands like we have good vodka (advice for the evening after the restaurant). Fruits for dessert stand literally cents and will probably get to your eyes in one of the Arab shops with a signboard "supermarket" on the way back to the hotel. Just belanded by an opaque folding bag – in hotels do not welcome store products and drinking.

If you want to eat, and the dinner budget does not exceed ?50, travel to the subway station to Porte Mallot, boldly go to the huddle of the Palace of Congress Congress Hotel Concorde La Fayette, make a face "Brick" And without looking around, move to elevators. If suddenly ask where (it happens extremely rare), you will say that you are waiting in the bar. Close to the 33rd floor, a rich buffet there is worth ?45, and tips pay no need. Over the next five, take a cocktail in the same panoramic bar, plunge into a luxurious leather chair, enjoy sparkling on the background of the night city with splendor of the ever-New Year Eiffel Tower, and do not deny yourself!

Of course, in Paris there are panoramic restaurants and lower. For example, George on the roof of the Pompidou Center, where ?80 will feed you with dinner with a bias to the eastern kitchen and will not seem very good wine. Club leisure lovers may prefer the stylish restaurant La Maison Blanche on Avenue Montaigne, 15, with White Room dance floor. Integrated dinner overlooking the Eiffel Tower stands here ?65 with a glass of wine and mineral.

Despite respect for the high kitchen, dinner every day in "Star" Restaurants will not be, even if the budget allows: very tedious and harmful to health. And located along the tourist trail of catering establishment year from year to reduce the quality of food and maintenance. Fortunately, in the capital of the world there are many carefully storing culinary traditions of restaurants of national and regional cuisine offering unique dishes.

For example, Olive Buyabes (Bouillabaisse) of several types of seafood with a complex preparation recipe and a special serving. This thick soup has many relatives in neighboring Mediterranean countries and a huge amount of fakes. In this regard, the Buyabes Association, which issues even established in Marseil "Right" Restaurants Special Certificates. I will not delve into the technology of cooking this dish, I will only say that at least one mandatory component – the sea scorpion (RASCASSE) – in Moscow does not get it, very rare and intolerable to transportation perishable fish. In Paris, Buyabes, I am not inferior to Marseille, you can try in the star Goumard, the entrance to which the spyware is hidden between African at nights on Rue Duphot, 9, near Madeleine. Restaurant is working daily. Be prepared for disgruntled views of some local bourgeois – place "For their own", Tourists are not used to tourists. Limit the satisfying buoyabez and a bottle of olive Ott Blanc de Blancs for two – and get ready to say goodbye to the euro on the person, this soup in restaurants is cheap does not happen. But in the noisy Bistro de L"Olivier on QUENTIN BAUCHART, 13 (George V Metro) You can try twice cheaper – less ?60 with good wine, coffee and tea.

Much less famous Overnian dish called andouillette. Roughly speaking, it is a huge sausage, stuffed with finely chopped pork stomach and other groats. For some reason, the degree of extremality of the flavor is measured in the amount of letters added to the title, and if the smell of two and is almost not felt behind the neighboring tables, then five A stitches from the top ten meters. You will never find this dish in expensive and even medium prices of restaurants and cafes. Honestly, my relatives and close friends prefer to go out while I, as the Megre Commissioner, enjoy this unusual "Swine" dish. Central location where you can try real Andouillette, – CHEZ Georges Harchevnya on Mail Street, Bourse Metro. Drink better beer, put in ?25. Other establishments risking these "Fragrant sausages" with a few A, – LE BISTRO DE PARIS Near Musee D"Orsay on Lille Street, 33 or located on the opposite from Bastille Beething Beer Moissonier on Fosses-St-Bernard Street, 28. In the same beer, you can taste a very tasty Norman dish from calf required des tripes – you will also not find it in "Gastronomic" institutions. In all cases, put in ?thirty.

The traditional Burgundy dish is COQ AU VIN – Rooster in wine. From the chicken it will not be able to make it possible – the porridge is welded. Proper technology provides for the use of blood freshly born and daily perishability of the final product. To taste it resembles an old joke: "Would be a hard vodka, we bled her". So if you decide to chew red wine, – Welcome "On Petush" In Au Moulin A Vent, under the side of the above-mentioned beer. Pleasure will cost B ?40 with wine.

Du Boudin Blood Sausage You can try in many bistro and brasseries (beer). Travelers, strongly swaying in Paris, recommend visiting Chez Leon on Legendre Street, 32 (Metro Villiers). Here you can try TETE de Veau – a gentle dish from the language, lips and cheeks of the calf. By tradition, ascending to Napoleon, immediately after ordering on the table you will have a free decanter with water. Do not drink, otherwise you can strongly regret! Order a bottle of mineral, all the same Your account for dinner of two dishes with wine will not exceed ?25 per person. I wonder what to try the same TETE de Veau in fashionable and chic apicius on Rue D"Artois, 20 You will cost exactly ten times more. By the way, only in Apicius you can order a lunch of three changes in which all the dishes will be prepared on the basis of fua-gras, – not in vain Michelin recently assigned the restaurant of the chef Jean-Pierre Vigato Second Star.

Numerous Beer Lovers We recommend trying Alsatian Choucrute – Salt Cabbage Dish, Potatoes and Different Smoked. Very different from the Bavarian stewed cabbage, but perfectly harmonizes with beer "1664", Right too from Alsace. You can try Choucrute in Ballon des Terres on Avenue Ternes, 103, opposite the Palace of Congresses or Bofinger on Bastille Street, in both cases put in ?35 with a pair of beer. Although, of course, drinking beer in France is a lesson for extremals. After all, there is a very close to Belgium, where more than five hundred varieties of this foam drink are boiled.

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